Here's the beast that's gonna drive the Electric Supra down the road.
It's so heavy (220 lbs of American iron) I have to use the hoist to move it!

Should provide plenty of low-end grunt to provide that lazy 3-litre-turbo Supra feeling...



Above you can see the adaptor plate and the bellhousing from the front of the Supra's auto gearbox.
The adaptor plate was a turntable from a laboratory machine we designed in work - but it's just the perfect size for this job!
At 12mm thick, it should be strong enough.



This is after my friend Derek in work machined out the centre of the plate so it would slide nicely over the end of the motor.

He mounted it onto a rotary table on his milling machine, centred it up then offset it by 2 inches and milled out a circular groove.
Make the groove deep enough and...  hey presto - a big 4 inch hole. He also drilled the eight holes for the 3/8unc bolts
that'll hold the plate onto the motor face.  Nice job Derek!  (the small holes are leftovers from the plate's original function)




Now came the tricky job of finding the centre, then marking up the holes for the bolts that secure the bellhousing into place.
I only had one shot at this (well maybe 2, I could rotate the plate by a 1/4 turn and re-drill it).

By mounting a dial indicator onto the taperlock flange that'll eventually feed the power into the gearbox,
I could slowly rotate the motor shaft and watch the indicator to see if it was on centre, gently tapping the bellhousing
with a hammer to move it (I used some clamps to hold it lightly in place). Once it was all centred up, I clamped it down
hard and rechecked that it was still on centre  -  total variation was less than 0.03mm for a full rev - about as close as I could get it.

I found a drill that'd fit nicely down the existing holes, and drilled them out using a cordless drill.
These holes are far too sloppy to keep the motor on centre with the gearbox input shaft, so I left the clamps on
whilst I bolted it up hard using some temporary bolts through these new holes.
Once it was all bolted up, I could remove the clamps and unbolt the assembly from the motor.

Now it was ready for the holes to be drilled, them reamed out to exactly 12.00 mm size - this was a job for the floor-standing pillar drill
we have in work.  After each hole was centred to the drill, they were opened out to 11.5mm with a standard twist drill, then reamed
out to 12mm, ready to take 12.00 (actually 11.95mm) diameter shoulder bolts, in grade 12.9 steel.  These bolts will allow me to separate the
bellhousing from the adaptor plate, and still be able to refit it back into exact alignment..... how else am I gonna get the torque converter in??

These bolts  need to be strong to resist the weight of the motor & gearbox trying to sag in the middle, as the mountings are
at the back of the gearbox and up near the terminal-end of the motor.  They also have to resist the entire torque output by the gearbox,
which must be passed by the motor casing into the front (engine) mounts! So there could be some pretty high shear loads on them.

Anyway, here's the end result - one Warp11 attached to a Supra gearbox!




The rubber pipe will eventually be replace with two hoses leading to a small tranny cooler.
Finding the right grade of pipe was a hassle - it has to resist ATF at up to 200 psi , which many grades of rubber can't handle.

Here you can see more detail of the shoulder bolts. There are four of these, fitted to the upper half of the adaptor plate. Tthe shape of the bellhousing won't allow me to use them on the lower half - there's just no room for the bolt head. So on the bottom half, I've kept the thread that's in the bellhousing holes, and will bolt through the plate with the original engine bolts.

I've had to install 1/2 inch spacers between the adaptor plate and the bellhousing, to fit the torque converter in (not show in the photos above).
Luckily they will be handy for welding on some struts to help brace the engine mounts against the huge torque this thing will generate

Here's a few shots from the 6-hour marathon putting the motor & gearbox in! I always seem to do stuff like this around New Year's - and no exception this time - date 31/12/08
My hoist isn't long enough for this job, hence why it took so long - I had to constantly wedge the motor then reposition the slings & chains.


Below is my CAD design for the final motor mounting brackets. These are going to be laser cut and bent to shape on CNC bending machinery.
4mm thick steel should give it plenty of strength.

The Warp11 will be bolted tight to the top strap using both the 1/2 UNC lifting eye holes, so it can't twist around inside the mounting.
The other holes are to provide clearance around the bolts for the field coils